Tuesday, December 20, 2011

22.12.2011 Rio de Janeiro, Brazil




We arrived in the evening in Sao Paolo. But as we didn't want to stay there, we took a shuttle luxurious bus to get to the bus terminal of the city. The ride was 45min and incredible expensive for such a short ride. After arriving there we were confronted with a huge terminal with hundreds of platforms and thousands of people. It was 22.00 in the night but hot and busy like to a main rush hour. After a short orientation time we found the location of the ticket offices. We saw 3 different offers for the same nights departure and booked with the cheapest one. We had some time before our bus was to depart and used the time to get some food before the 8hrs ride to Rio. Luckily we were tired and slept most of the time.

We arrived in the morning hours and took the local bus to get to Copa Cabana. After choosing one of the stops we tried to find a hostel. We walked along many roads until we found a hostel in our price range. We were able to store our bags and go to the beach, as our room. As still occupied. It was a nice sunny morning and on the way to the beach we stopped at a small open corner bakery which sold fresh juices, coffee and some kind of pastries. We tried a little of everything and realized that Portuguese was so far of Spanish and we started with all our knowledge about the offers from zero again.

Our walk along the beach was very interesting and entertaining. A lot of people played football and this damn good. Most people just lay there and waited for a vendor to come by so that they could fill their beer glasses again. The waves were playground for a lot of people for a refreshing splash of the heat.








We enjoyed the atmosphere, the view to the sugar loaf and watched the people. The afternoon we went to the hostel and our room mate, an old Rio expert, gave us some tips and hints and also told us about Lapa's nightlife, which was supposed to be on it's peak on a Friday night. And as it was Friday night, we went out! On the way there we already got greeted on the street by ladies with no shirts on.i thought that was a promising start. The small streets were packed with people. Out of every house came some music. Vendors had grills with food on it and others had big styrofoam boxes filled with cold beverages for sale. Some even had a cocktail bar build p and we ordered 2 large caipirinia's. The mix was very good and a lot of alcohol came into the mix of limes and a lot of sugar. With the cup in the hand we proceeded through the lively streets, watched people dance samba on the streets and People pass by.


There is an "old town" part, which has small narrow streets and very old buildings, and a newer area with wide streets and more modern pubs and clubs. We cruised through both, but liked the old part a lot better.


I think it was 4am by the time we came back to the hostel. Next morning we decided to move to another hostel, as this one was about to raise the prices by 3 for the upcoming new year. We found after the advise of our room mate a cheap, shabby hostel in Gloria. The prices were even with a new years increase cheaper in the private room, then in the other hostel in a dorm room. So we moved!

Christmas we spent at the beach in Copa Cabana. If you wonder why you didn't get any presents, then I can tell you that Santa was in summer-holiday mood and spent his time with us.





On christmas night we went to church. Not really that we understand Portuguese, but we wanted to enjoy this experience. The mess was fulfilled by a lot of music. It was almost like a concert, with the priest as a star and the church as hardcore fans, chanting, waving their arms and so on. There was even an emotional presentation of a small half naked baby to announce the Jesus baby birth. It was a wonderful evening and memorable.








We had dinner in a typical Brazilian restaurant where you fill some side dishes on your plate and all 5 minutes a guy comes by with a huge stick in his hand with a different kind of meat on it. He cuts a piece of the stick and puts it on a plate for you. They have all different kind of meats and it's an endless flow of huge amounts of meat. I almost had a meat infection (naaa, just kidding). After our long abstinence of meat, good meat, of the last few months, we ate a lot and were in heaven!

Another night in Lapa brought me closer to "Flamingo", not the bird but the local football club. After long celebrations with some fans, one of them made a jersey change with me. He insisted! I have now a Flamingo shirt with the number 10 and he has a grey T-shirt of mine. I hope he didn't wake up next morning and regret his decision. I for my part am now a Flamingo fan! Later that night we made contact with another group of people. They all were strong believers in Socialism and we went to sing socialist songs together with a group of typical percussion instruments known here in Brazil. As you know, my Portuguese sucks, so I just hummed with the beats and rhythms. It was a very entertaining evening, I can tell you that.

The night busses in Rio are just like the once from Harry Potter. You enter them and they start exhilarating instantly. If you not manage to hold on a seat you will end up on the back-row in a blink of an eye. They drive with unbelievable speeds through the roads, sometimes only on a third of their wheels, this is at least how it feels. It definitely is an experience and probably better then some of the joyrides in some of the amusement parks.

As we decided to stay over new year in Rio, we started exploring the city step by step. Unfortunately our friends from Atlanta were not able to come and share their knowledge with us about their city, so we had to do it on ourselves. One day we went to the famous Impanema beach. A beautiful beach with a great scenery.








On the promenade people were riding their bikes, boarding or jogging along. A lot of well trained people... We also came to a lake from where you can see the Christ statue from far away.


Along the beach and all over Rio you can find outdoor gyms for everybody to use. A great way to keep a country fit. But as the foo (except of the meat) is not really good and definitely not healthy, I guess this is necessary. The best gym we saw was this one right at the beach. All others were modern and in bright colors. This however reminded me more of a prison gym! With a nice view...





This is the otherwise from Copa Cabana.


We walked for many hours through the city and had a look at different sights.












We experienced all different kind of areas and aspects of the city. There are many reputations about the city and I can certify that they are true. It's and dirty and dangerous city. Even during the day time in bright light, in the middle of a busy street you are not safe. The fact that in the night time in a party area you will feel some hands in your pockets on the search for your belongings is a given thing and when prepared for it (money hidden) it doesn't matter that much. A long story I could tell right here, but if you are interested, I'll tell you in person one day... Unfortunately during one incident I hurt my foot and it swell up and I was not able to work for 3 days. A short trip to a supermarket made it worst in an instance. So we rested in our small, hot, shabby little prison room. But good to know that there are very adventurous taxi drivers who like it like in action movies... A long story, as I said, which I need to tell in person.

As we wanted to see a little of Rio, we went to see the statue of "Christ the Redeemer". With a little shuttle we went up the windy road. A long queue and long waiting times were all inclusive. When we finally arrived on the top, we thought that we actually shortly saw the statue. It was a wonderful foggy day and even though we were at the foot of the statue, we most of the time didn't see it. Every little appearance was welcomed by the crowed with a loud sound of excitement.








It was a pricy, foggy experience with long waiting times. During a nice and sunny day there are beautiful views which might be worth the money. We could wait for new year to come so we could leave this place. We stayed in town to be able to see the big celebration at Copa Cabana beach together with 2.5mio other people. We prepared some caipi to take with us to the beach.


It was a rainy day and it stayed for most of the night drizzling down on us. We didn't take any pictures as we didn't want to take a camera with us. And it proofed to be right as our Swedish friends got their second camera stolen within one week just 15 min after we arrived at the beach. All the time you could feel hands grabbing into your pockets, searching for your belongings. As we didn't have anything, we didn't worry too much. The crowds of people was enormous. We were not able to walk. We got pushed everywhere and I was scared for my life at some stage. For a distance you would need 10min on a busy day, we needed 1hrs. We finally stopped in the middle of the beach with view on one of the 5 stages. It was not really possible to see and hear very good what was going on on the stage, however, the first band we saw was pretty good. Wen it finally was 12 a huge firework started. It was amazing and mirrored 4 times above the bay. It went on for 18min and one of a kind. A great experience for the firework, but the amount of people didn't make the rest of the evening very enjoyable. We had good company (Mikael and David), which made the fact that we couldn't refill our beverages any more, not so bad. Number one it was too far to any shop and as soon as all the walking vendors were sold out of their stock there was no chance for more, as I said it was impossible to get anywhere, including the toilets. A magic pancho did great job that night. We managed to get back to our hostel where we met David again, after we lost him in the crowds. We drank a beer as we were really thirsty and went to bed. A couple of hours later we finally were on the road out of Rio and were very excited about our next destination, the "Iguazu Falls". We arrived at Foz de Iguazu after a 26 hour bus ride!

It could have been a different experience, however the one we had was not what I expected and I was disappointed in a lot of ways about Rio and Brazil.

More pictures of Rio are here.

Monday, December 19, 2011

20.12.2011 Lima, Peru

We only had a short stop in Lima after a long bus ride from Arequipa. Our flight was the next day to Rio. As we didn't feel to safe with cameras in Peru and especially in Lima with it's "reputation", we didn't take the camera with us on our city exploration tour. There are many beautiful buildings and churches. On the plaza in front of the palace stood a huge Christmas tree. Actually it was a huge cone with different colorful objects decorated around it. It was probably one of the most tasteful decorated trees we've seen. We slept in a hostel which was more an art gallery then a hostel. We were located on the top floor, were a turtle crawled around, birds sat on sculptures and the plants made it feel like a botanical garden. A very pretty location. As Lima is a place were food is one of the top priorities, we went to try different ceviches in different locations.


What is ceviches? Find out with Wikipedia: Wikipedia/Ceviche

It was fantastic. We also tasted other food offered on the street. We had a good last rest after playing with the puppy which we found peeing in front of our room door.
The next morning our preordered taxi didn't show up, so we joined an English couple in their taxi. Thanks for the ride again! After some confusion with the check in location we successfully managed to get this procedure behind us as well and get rolling for Brazil.

Saturday, December 17, 2011

17.12.2012 Arequipa, Peru







After a short stop in La Paz we crossed the boarder again to Peru. We stayed in the probably cleanest city of Peru, Arequipa. As we arrived very late, we were not able to book a tour for the next morning as hoped. So we had a good dinner and went to bed.











Next day we explored the beautiful town and went to the bus terminal, where we tried to book a bus to get to Cabanaconde and the "Colca Canyon". No, this has nothing to do with the birthplace of the world famous secret of Coca Cola. The Colca Canyon is the deepest canyon of the world and a place where you can see condors flying through the air. Somehow all the busses where booked out for the next day with all the different companies available. As we where on a schedule, we decided to go back to town and book a tour which would bring us to the canyon and then have a guide to lead us. After comparing some agencies we went with "Inca Tours". We got a little discount and thought that was a deal. Next morning I set my alarm for 3am so we would be ready at 3.30am for pick up. When we where sitting in front of the door and waiting I thought it would be good to check our itinerary again. Whilst doing so, I realized that pick up was supposed to be between 3am and 3.30am. I started to freak out! We missed our group?! I knew that there was another couple of girls from another hostel on the same tour. I ran the 4 blocks down to the other place. It took me some time to communicate my situation to the overnight security guide at the door. Finally he understood my question, if the girls where here. At that time I also realized, that my alarm was on a different time as I forgot to change it back to Peru time and that it just was 3am. So I left the place again and returned to Chrisy. Now we were relaxed again and waited for the bus. It was 3.30am and no bus. At 4am no bus. Our lady at the hostel started to look puzzled at us. She asked us with which company we booked and said that "Inca Tour" was not reliable with pick ups. Great!! She started to do a couple of calls and eventually reached somebody. It was now over 1 1/2 hrs over the time and we were close to go back to bed and skip the canyon, when the doorbell of the hostel rang. A lady stood outside and told us that there was a mistake and that she would drive us to the bus, which was waiting outside of town. The taxi driver got everything out of the small car. I still don't know what kind of car this is, but the 90% of the cars and most of them are taxis are this type. It was a good 30min ride and luckily there wasn't too much traffic. The mobile of the lady rang a couple of times to ask for our location. She then gave even more pressure to the driver. He had to stop and ask her for money so he was able to fill some gas into the tank.

We finally arrived at the waiting bus, the charge of the taxi must have been a good amount. We where happy to have managed to be still a part of the tour. For the next few hours we slept on the bus. Our first stop was at the "cross of the condor". At this place of the canyon the condors love to show off their big wings and circle around for the tourists. I'm sure they get some extra pay by the Peruvian tourist board.











We only saw one far away and as we didn't have too much time because of the fact that they forgot us this morning, we had to leave after 20min and go to our start of the trail into the canyon. We had a great group of people around us and our guide was fantastic. He took a lot of time to explain a lot of fact from the area and the culture.





The green patch was where we were heading to for the night. It's called "oasis" and we would find out later why. The trail was steep and very dry. The sun was burning down on us and the temperatures were very hot. We had 7hrs of hiking ahead of us. Unfortunately half way down the trail, EJ one girl of the group twisted her knee. She managed to walk into the valley, but our guide hat to organize a mule for her to transport her to the oasis. We had a lunch break in a small village with 26 people. On the menu was lama meat, rice and potatoes.





This church is only used once a year. It is the place for a big fiesta and 200-300 people are coming for this event. Everybody will wear the traditional cloths and the colorful hats.





We proceeded after lunch towards the oasis. Our group got split into two, because of some injuries with another person. The little fitter ones went ahead so that we could enjoy a little sunlight and have the possibility to jump into the pool. On the way we came to a beautiful bridge over the river.











When we finally arrived the "oasis" we were more then happy to take our smelly shoes off, take a quick cold show and jump into this amazing pool. It was build into the nature adjoining to a huge rock. The water was very cold and refreshing and the view like it can't get any better...





We had a good dinner (Spaghetti) and slept in this very basic equipped huts. There was no electricity, but who needs electricity in paradise?

As we had to get up early to be able to be on top of the canyon after a steep 3 hrs hike, we went to bed soon. Next morning, after we were into the trail for already 15min, I realized that I forgot my documents which I hide under the mattress. So I ran down the mountain to retrieve my belongings. The way up was not so easy. I managed to run for a 1/5 of the way. From there onwards my heart was racing with 231 beats per minute, my head was red like a Dutch tomato and my breath was like a dog after a 19km run in 46 degree sunshine. I managed to catch up with the rest of the group soon and was happy that their average speed gave me time to catch my breath again. I'm so happy that it wasn't further up the hill that I remembered my mistake.





We all were very relieved when we arrived on the top. From the 7 people who started the tour by foot, only 3 actually arrived by foot on top again. The other 4 took the mule for the climb from the oasis to our final destination. And I did a couple of extra meters on top of that. I'm sure we gonna have the one or other sore muscle tomorrow! Thanks Nick for joining us on our trip up the hill.





Here is our fantastic guide who kept us going!











In the next town we had a good breakfast and waited for our bus back to Arequipa.





In Peru you can make advertisement for brick stones just the same way like you would do it for car tires or beer. I actually like to see it and don't mind.





On the way back we stopped at the "cross of the Condor" again and this time we already got company shortly before our arrival. 1 adult and 1 younger condor glided majestically through the air and passed by the spectators. I got some beautiful shots with the video camera.

















After this experience we went on to our next stop in a small town. There we had the chance to try another version of the famous Pisco Sour: the Colca Sour. It was prepared with Pisco, lime, sugar and cactus fruit and ice. A lot of strong alcohol... There was also a little market where locals offered their handicraft and showcased the local animals.

















After visiting a beautiful thermal spring with different temperated pools and a very clean and neat set up, we had an amazing lunch buffet. The quality and variation of the food was incredible. A lot of great salads and different meats were offered. I think we went a couple of times back to the dessert buffet section to ensure we tried everything.

We arrived back in Arequipa late that evening. We had a beer with EJ, Nick and our guide. Thanks for the drinks again! They had some challenges with their tour agency and I hope they managed to sort it out. We also passed by our agency and told them that they were useless and that we were pissed off about the fact that they forgot us. I asked them for a Pisco Sour as reimbursement. They didn't think this was necessary as they didn't do a mistake. My advise now: DON'T BOOK WITH "WASI TOURS" when you are in Arequipa!
But go to Arequipa, it's beautiful!











For more pictures of Arequipa and the Colca Canyon click the link.